#Remove south bend 9 crossfeed handle full

The drive will take roughly ~2 hours, be prepared for a bit of traffic as youвЂ™re getting into South Bend on game days.

ThereвЂ™s ample parking in downtown Chicago but plan to pay ~$30/day.

If youвЂ™re flying in, itвЂ™d be easiest to rent a car from either OвЂ™Hare or MDW.

If youвЂ™re traveling to the game from the city, you have a few options: Staying in South Bend is a great option if youвЂ™re a big ND fan, however, weвЂ™d recommend making an ND game day part of an extended trip to Chicago вЂ“ add in a CubвЂ™s Game at Wrigley, experience the incredible restaurants or music scene the city has to offer, and so much more. If youвЂ™re interested in getting a feel for South Bend, take a look at this blog post with all the details on the area and campus itself, linked here. Most folks traveling in for a Notre Dame game either stay close to the campus, in South Bend, Indiana, or in Downtown Chicago. Make sure to pack enough food for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and post-gating! Getting to South Bend

#Remove south bend 9 crossfeed handle full

YouвЂ™re in for a full day of tailgating.Д®ven though some games are scheduled for 7:30 PM, youвЂ™ll be surprised that there will be a line-up of cars at the parking lots 12.5+ hours before kick-off waiting to get going (or maybe 24+ hours for the 11/7 Clemson game вЂ“ ha!). It's very simple really.Д®nd clearance is adjusted by shimming at the thrust washer (or bearing with newer units).This should sum up the game day experience at Notre Dame: parking lots open at 7:00 AMВ for ALL home games! ThatвЂ™s right. The dial has a thumb screw that allows the dial to be moved and then locked to the screw. The part that screws into the carriage is called the bushing and the part that is on the screw is called the dial. But it does nothing for backlash in the lead screw nut.No confusion if you have a SB or have seen one. But it does nothing for backlash in the lead screw nut.ДЄnd as mentioned keep in mind that all this would remove excess backlash from the lead screw to upper casting. Or it may be that the bushing is threaded and when not tight the GW acts just as a spacer and the bushing can be turned out a little to set the backlash? And the GW is more of a spacer that can be locked in position? If you add any shims I'd say that the best place would be between the bushing and the body if in fact the bushing screws into place.ДЄ lot of guessing on this since the parts diagrams are a poor thing to work from.ДЄnd as mentioned keep in mind that all this would remove excess backlash from the lead screw to upper casting. Instead it appears that the screw is intended to be used to lock the end play of the shaft. To me it does not look like the GW fits OVER the bushing. Using page 4 of THIS DIAGRAM if we look at the compound I see part 40 is the marked number wheel and 41 is some manner of bushing. I don't have a 9 and the parts diagrams I found online are a bit sketchy. It depends on if the screw you found is to permanently lock the graduated wheel (GW) in place or to actually act as a thrust bearing. Your post has people confused with the backlash in the leadscrew nut which is unavoidable. i'm having trouble understanding how your adjustable dial is assembled but i think i understand the problem. There should be almost no backlash in that assembly and there shouldn't be enough slop to where the adjustable dial hits anything.

I did search here but didn't find the answer. I hope this hasnt been covered on another thread. It doesn't seem like the dial should be the controlling piece in backlash on the cross slide and compound. If the dials are zeroed and snugged 'forward' away from the handles, all is well. The shafts seem to be all the way on as the keyslot is only so deep. It seems like shimming between the handle and the dial is the right way to fix it, but wanted to ask. When I move my QCTP and tighten it, there is enough pressure to move the slides and shift the dials toward me and this creates a gap and I get a whole bunch of backlash again.

Here is my problem- there is clearance between the handle and the dial. With the dials snugged up and pushed forward on the shaft, I have almost no backlash on the handles going in and out for slide/compound. I added a piece of round brass below the screw, so there will be no more galling. I carefully dressed that back and now the dials both spin freely. I found that the straight slot set screw had galled the shafts just a bit. I removed the handles, and worked the dials off both the compound and the cross slide. I found that I couldnt adjust the dials to zero them out and didn't want to use a marker all the time. I want to be able to single point thread various things so have been learning that. I'm getting to know my first lathe and it's a nice 1940 South Bend 9A.